The Aromatic Connection

            Love perfumes? Then read on… On my visit to the South of France, I went to Grasse (pronounced as Ghaas). Grasse, a town on the French Riviera is situated amidst the hills to the north of Cannes. It is considered to be the “World Capital of Perfumes”. There are many perfumeries in that region, of which Galimard, founded in 1747, is considered to be the oldest one in the region. The long established heritage is celebrated at the Musee International de la Parfumerie.

(Galimard)

Entrance to the Perfumery

                Galimard has been a wonderful learning experience. We were welcomed at the factory by Crystal, a bright smart lady who has been working there for the last 28 years. She enlightened us on the complicated and long methodology involved in the manufacture of perfumes. Perfume or rather ‘Parfum’ is a mixture of flower petals, alcohols, fixative and essential oils. To prepare one litre essential oil, about 450 – 480 kg of flower petals is required.The five basic flowers involved in the making of aromatic oils are- Rose, Mimosa, Tuber Rose, Lavender and Jasmine. A majority of the flowers are grown in that region as the climate is congenial for their growth, but a good chunk of it, is also exported from Istanbul, India and many other countries. Perfumes are categorised into various flavours as spicy, fruity, etc. While for the ‘hommes’ (men) mint, coconut, melon and green apple are recommended; cherry, mango and lemon are an absolute ‘femme’ (women) choice.

Perfume Containers 

There are almost 200 essential oil types which are stored in metal containers mainly made of copper. She further elucidated the meaning of ‘Eau de Toilette’, ‘Eau de Parfum’ and ‘Parfum’ which are usually written over packaged bottles of perfume. Eau de Toilette has a fragrance which lasts for 2-3 hours, contains 6% essential oils while Eau de Parfum has 12% essential oil and lasts for 5 to 6 hours. TheParfum with 20% and above essential oil has no water and can last upto 8 to 10 hours.As she went on showing us the nitty- gritty details of the aromatic world, I remain stunned in awe.

Inside the perfumery

A person who selects, distinguishes and helps in creating a perfume is called as a Nose. There are about 200 Noses all over the world, of which 40 are French, and 38 of them lives in Grasse. The Nose’s chamber is called an Organ. The ‘organ’ is a special laboratory where ‘noses’ create variegated aromas by mixing around 80 to 200 various combinations of essential oils. There is a very interesting fact about the job of a Nose. There is no official course or curriculum to be a Nose. It is by heredity that they learn the art of aromatic credentials. A Nosecan never booze, smoke or relish spicy condiment. A Nose can earn a whooping amount of 7,500 euros by working for just two hours a day. Not bad, isn’t it?

The Organ

Next, was the most tempting part of the perfumery - an array of bottles which included perfumes for men and women, room fresheners, soaps, aromatic candles, etc. were kept decorated in well-arranged shelves. Every year they keep changing the fragrances and bring out the latest essence as per the demand of the changing times. Chanel, Dior, D&G, Versace and many other international brands of repute hire Noses or buy the perfumes directly from them. We were fortunate enough to inhale their latest perfumes, including the very special ‘Napoleon’. How could I now resist myself from buying one? The pocket pinch? Hush… 

Grasse enlivened my olfactory perception. The mojo of Galimard is unforgettable. Normally a trip keeps ringing on ones’ mind, but this one was titillating my nasal entity. I will also remember Crystal’s word, “Never smell a parfum instantly. Just put a drop on both the sides of your neck and the aroma will diffuse in and around you, of course if it’s original”. Thank you Madame Crystal, for offering such a fantabulous experience.‘Je vousremercie’ Galimard.

Picture Courtesy: Tomal Bhattacharjee